VULCANO from End to End
Vulcano Island, Sicily, Italy in the Tyrrhenian Sea Coordinates 38 º23’58”N14 º57’50”E
After making previsions in Sant’Agata di Militello on the mainland of Sicily, our Lagoon 45 Catamaran was ready to set sail on the 14-day adventure to the Isole Eolie, the Aeolian Islands. The first port of call was Vulcano. Vulcano island last erupted 1888-1890. The characteristics of the island are visible immediately upon arrival. The odor of Sulphur from the fumaroles (earth cracks emitting steam and gases) and can be detected everywhere. Near the port, you can immerse yourself in the mud baths where it is said the hot mud is good for your skin and other ailments. Be prepared to smell like rotten eggs when you exit, nevertheless, several of our sailing mates enjoyed the mud bath.
Grandfather’s Ferrari
For me and my crew of 3, we planned to Take Another Route. Just off the docks and a 3-minute walk to the main street you will find Nolo Sprint da Luigi where we picked up our mini moke rental.
Realizing the whole island is only 8 sq. mi, and the Mini Moke is not your grandfather’s Ferrari, it is rather more like a go-cart with 4 tiny seats and a low golf cart roof. However, this will do perfectly for our 14km/25 min trek for the afternoon. The road (singular as there are only 2 on the whole island) is mostly paved and we head to the most southern point on the opposite side of the island from the port. Reaching Gelso, a pinpoint on the earth but incredible scenic port “town” we find a panoramic view of the sea.
As we are sailors, we cannot help but notice the Faro, (Italian for lighthouse, Punta dei Porci, Faro di Gelso). A short walk, about 400 m (1/4 mi) from the end of the road at Gelso we hike the trail and arrive at this landmark. The station was established in 1853. Although abandoned, we did enjoy the beauty of the old lighthouse architecture. Additionally, along the path, we discovered the 18th – century Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie. I cannot pass up a church either. I enjoy the contrast of styles in architecture from the simplest chapel to the grand and ornate cathedrals I have visited around the world.
Malvasia
Back at the port and returning our Ferrari, we toured the small city on foot, checking out shops, and of course, we found the wine shop. Enoteca Mimmo Paone, inviting and thirsty we enter this lovely small shop. The tasting was generous and free although we did procure a few bottles of nice wine for the boat. If you follow the link at the end of the article, you can find out more about Mimmo Paone. Their Malvasia was scrumptious and paired nicely with our island foods.
The last stop of the day is usually the nearest to the location where you are staying, and for us, we had scoped out The King of the Fish Di Fusco Giacomo which is the very first place you will see at the end of the docks. We saved this for last as their fish market would be our shopping destination. We purchased exquisite fresh tuna, shrimp, anchovies, and scallops for our niçoise salad, tomorrow’s lunch while cruising to the next island.
Bonus, the pescivendolo, (fish market workers) were typical Italian gentlemen, (very funny and of course helpful). They were quite insistent and persuasive in getting me to taste their special fresh oil marinade anchovies, I DON’T eat anchovies – EVERY! Belting out my best Italian, “no grazie non mi piacciono le acciughe” and before I knew it my mouth was open like a tiny seal gobbling up this delicious local delicacy. Grazie, we will add some of these to the purchase per favore.
Flotilla had Landed
Three of the five boats in our flotilla had landed by nightfall and as a group of 24 sailors, we enjoyed a nice dinner at a local restaurant, Cantine Stevenson. Local fish is always on the menu here, fresh and well prepared. No evening in any Italian city can end without a walk to the gelato shop. Who says NO to Gelato in Italy? IL Gelato Di Antonio, appears before our very eyes. Our flotilla seemed to enjoy this delicious treat and now it was time to retire after a long day.
Rotten Eggs
Personally, we skipped the mud bath in favor of exploring the island in the mini moke but we did manage a stroll past the baths while touring the town. It was quite a gastric sight to see plumes of Sulphur gas expelling from cracks in the rocks near the hot baths. Some people in our group did take to the baths and expressed enjoyment in the experience. They say bring an old swim costume for the baths as it will take on a new life after the baths. BE READY to smell the rotten eggs. Avoid if you can to fill your water tank, water too smells like rotten eggs! LOL
Did I love Vulcano? YES, it was a perfect place and pace to begin our 14-day sailing trip through Mare delle Isole Eolie.
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For more articles on the Mare delle Isole Eolie and islands visited, follow me at Take Another Route, www.takeanotherroute.com – Longhaul
Isole Eolie adventure When Dolphins Fly – see When Dolphins Fly – Sant’ Agata di Militello, Sicily
Foot Note: many businesses in these small locations do not have websites so I have listed the address location for you.
Enoteca Mimmo Paone – LolcanoContrada Porto Levante, 98055 Vulcano ME, Italy
Il Gelato Di Antonio, Via Provinciale, 98055 Vulcano Porto ME, Italy
Next anchorage Panarea, don’t miss this story.
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